2 delightful days in Lake Maggiore

Last updated on January 13th, 2024.

The most memorable trips we’ve had were those that were planned at the last minute.

Take our incredible 2 days in Lake Maggiore (Lago Maggiore). Shared between Piedmont and Lombardy in northern Italy, the lake makes an ideal long weekend break.

It’s also a great destination to consider adding to your Italy bucket list.

While Lake Maggiore is well known by many, Lake Como and Lake Garda tend to steal the spotlight.

In this post, I’ll be sharing with you the best things to do in Lake Maggiore. Note down the top attractions and best outdoor activities to see with this helpful day-by-day Lake Maggiore itinerary.

It’s an ideal guide if you’re planning on visiting Lake Maggiore for 1, 2 or even 3 days. You’ll be glad you added this picturesque gem to your itinerary when planning your trip to Italy.

Quiet scene on Isola Superiore - 2 days in Lake Maggiore
Quiet streets on Isola Superiore

A brief introduction to Lake Maggiore

Lake Maggiore is the second largest lake in Italy and is located on the south side of the Alps. It’s shared by the Italian regions of Lombardy and Piedmont along with the Swiss canton of Ticino.

Measuring 64km (40mi) long and 3 to 5km (2 to 3mi) wide, Lake Maggiore is the longest lake in Italy. It’s located halfway between another neighboring lake in Piedmont, Lake Orta, and Lake Lugano, which sits on the Italian/Swiss border.

Lake Maggiore is most known for its impressive villas, gardens and enchanting islands: Isola Bella, Isola Superiore and Isola Madre.

When is a good time to visit Lake Maggiore?

Weather in the north of Italy can be unpredictable — something we discovered during our 3 days in Lake Como.

We visited Lake Maggiore during the Easter holidays (mid-April), and fortunately for us, the weather was perfect.

Lisa Rivera at Ristorante Elvezia - where to eat on Isola Bella
We were blessed with perfect weather on our 2 days in Lake Maggiore

Granted, the Easter holidays aren’t the quietest period to travel, but it wasn’t as busy as we’d expected. Generally speaking, spring (April, May) or late autumn (September, October) is a good time to visit Lake Maggiore.

But, even if the weather’s predicted to be warm, be sure to pack some sweaters and a light jacket. Temperatures can drop by the lake and light winds in the evening can make it feel colder.

2 days in Lake Maggiore

Day 1 – arrival in Stresa

We couldn’t have asked for better weather for our 2 days in Lake Maggiore. A 3-hour drive from our home in Vicenza, the skies were a perfect blue with a temperature of 23°C (73.4°F).

The drive along Lake Maggiore to Stresa is a pretty one, filled with incredible villas and sprawling scenery. Stresa is one of the best towns on Lake Maggiore given its lakeside location and its close distance to the Borromean Islands.

Some of the towns we passed included Dormelletto, Arona and Lesa. If you’ve time, I highly suggest parking up and exploring the towns on foot. Much of the view (from the car) is overshadowed by the road barriers, walls or by foliage.

Sunset on Isola dei Pescatori - outdoor activities in Lake Maggiore
Sunset on Isola dei Pescatori, Lake Maggiore

Stresa calls

Aside from the sign indicating that you’ve arrived in Stresa, the change is noticeable. For one, the road transforms from narrow to wide, opening up to spectacular views of the lake.

The resort town of Stresa is exactly that: a town that caters to visitors. Grand hotels line the stretch of road overlooking the water, the most famous being the Grand Hôtel des Îles Borromées. Its most famous guest was American author, Ernest Hemingway.

Though Hemingway didn’t live in Stresa unlike Freya Stark in Asolo, I’m certain he was inspired by his surroundings.

Along this stretch are other notable lakeside Lake Maggiore hotels. They include:

Overlooking Lake Maggiore and the Lungolago di Stresa (Stresa pathway), all of these hotels are in a top location.

Grand Hôtel des Îles Borromées, Corso Umberto I, 67
Lungolago di Stresa, Corso Umberto I, 73

Map: 2 days in Lake Maggiore (Lago Maggiore)

Hotels on Isole Borromee (Borromean Islands)

Instead of opting to stay on the mainland, we chose to book accommodation right on the Isole Borromee (Borromean Islands). There are several advantages to doing this.

  • You get to experience life on the island rather than just making a quick stopover
  • Most visitors are gone by 5pm leaving the island just for you
  • Most hotels are close to the ferry terminal meaning it’s a short distance to carry your luggage
  • Restaurants are less busy and reservations are easy to make

On the flip side, there are also some disadvantages to staying on the Borromean Islands.

  • WiFi in the hotel is limited
  • Crowded ferries can be a pain for carrying luggage around
  • Costs can add up if you want to take a ferry back and forth to the other islands

Where to park in Stresa, Lake Maggiore

If arriving by car in Lake Maggiore, it’s important to remember the name of your parking area. Though this sounds obvious, it’s easy to get confused especially if it’s your first time.

We parked our car in a lot called Parcheggio Baia (Bay parking), which is closer to the port of Carciano. While it sits within Stresa, the actual ferry terminal of Stresa is about 15 minutes away on foot.

Lesson learnt

We learned this the hard way when we took the ferry back from Isola Bella to Stresa rather than Carciano. However, blessed with perfect April weather, we didn’t complain as we walked the Lungolago di Stresa back to our car.

Like Salo, Lake Garda, the lungolago is also one of the best free things to do in Lake Maggiore. A top outdoor activity, it’s ideal for the whole family and for furry friends too.

Car parks in Carciano (Stresa) include:

  • Parcheggio Baia: Viale Lido, 1
  • Parking Lido: Piazzale Lido, 8
  • Parcheggio 83 (free parking but it gets busy very quickly): 28838 Stresa

Arriving on Isola Bella

It takes just 5 minutes from the ferry terminal of Carciano to arrive at Isola Bella. For a short ride, it’s one of the most scenic on Lake Maggiore.

A one-way ferry ticket from Stresa to Isola Bella costs €3.40 ($3.67/£2.86) for adults and €1.70 ($1.84/£1.43) for children. It’s easy to book directly at the ticket office, but you can also book directly online.

An alternative money-saver is to purchase the hop-on, hop-off boat ticket. Enjoy the Borromean Islands at your own pace and for one price.

Lisa Rivera at Palazzo Borromeo - things to do in Lake Maggiore
Nothing but beautiful views on Isola Bella — 2 days in Lake Maggiore

Feel the breeze brush against your face as you admire the magnificent gardens ahead, and the Stresa shoreline behind.

Bella by name, bella by nature, Isola Bella is, for me, the most beautiful part of Lake Maggiore. Captivating up close and from afar, we were hooked the second we set foot upon the shore.

Free to explore — free things to do in Lake Maggiore

After leaving our bags in our hotel, we wasted no time in exploring the island. Measuring just 0.32km (0.199mi) in length, it’s possible to explore every nook and cranny on Isola Bella.

A row of stalls selling goods and souvenirs greet you the moment you disembark from the ferry. By no means intrusive, they don’t take away from the island’s charm.

Quiet streets on Isola Bella - 2 days in Lake Maggiore
Stalls on Isola Bella, Lake Maggiore

We counted just 3 lakeside bars and cafes on Isola Bella: Caffè Lago, Lemontree and Ristorante Magnolia.

Caffè Lago serves hot and cold drinks, including alcohol.

Caffè Lago, Via Lungo Lago Vittorio Emanuele, 18

Lemontree serves hot and cold drinks as well as light meals and desserts. It has a seating area inside and out, and makes one of the best coffee frappes I’ve ever had. If it was open in winter, I’m certain they would add some fun latte art similar to what I found in NYC.

Lemontree, Vittorio Emanuele, Via Lungo Lago, 18

View from Lemontree Cafe on Isola Bella
View from Lemontree Cafe on Isola Bella — 2 days in Lake Maggiore

Ristorante Magnolia doubles up as a lakeside bar, cafe and restaurant. They serve everything from pasta and pizza to seafood and gelato.

Ristorante Magnolia, Via Vittorio Emanuele

While we didn’t see any ‘tourist menus’ on display, it may have just been the time of year. If you’re thinking about visiting Isola Bella, and Lake Maggiore, during summer, keep an eye out for them.

Tourist menus usually mean lower quality produce for higher prices, but it’s up to you to make the call.

Ristorante Magnolia Isola Bella - where to eat on Isola Bella
Outside Ristorante Magnolia

The star of the show — Palazzo Borromeo

We spent our first afternoon on Isola Bella practicing the art of slow travel. Strolling at a pigeon’s pace, we took in every possible angle of the surrounding lake.

From the shoreline to the large-stone beach at the end of the island, the views will capture your heart.

Isola Bella’s main, and only, attraction is Palazzo Borromeo and its gardens. One of the top attractions to visit in Lake Maggiore, you don’t want to miss it.

Beautiful gardens at Palazzo Borromeo - best attractions in Lake Maggiore
Beautiful gardens at Palazzo Borromeo on Isola Bella — 2 days in Lake Maggiore

Until 1630, Isola Bella was only inhabited by fishermen. It consisted of just 2 small churches and vegetable gardens.

The Borromeo family — a powerful aristocratic family from Milan — transformed the island. Their estate includes Palazzo Borromeo, the Borromean Islands and the Rocca d’Angera.

Art, history and spectacular beauty

From the moment you ascend the grand staircase, the palace gifts you one surprise after the other. There are over 20 rooms to see within Palazzo Borromeo, some of the most dazzling being the Throne and the Tapestry Room.

At its heart is the Berthier Gallery. The room exhibits over 130 paintings including masterpieces, and several copies, from the likes of Raphael, Correggio and Titian.

The Tapestry Room at Palazzo Borromeo
The Tapestry Room at Palazzo Borromeo

My personal favorite of all the rooms is the grotto. Located on the lake level, the 6 rooms that make up the grotto are covered in a mix of materials. They include stone, marble and lava. Stucco ornaments — in the form of shells, mermaids fish and turtles — convey the grotto’s water theme.

Noticeably cooler than the rest of the palace, it was designed to enjoy the lake breeze on warm summer days.

Grotto at Palazzo Borromeo - things to do with kids in Lake Maggiore
Grotto at Palazzo Borromeo

The baroque gardens at Palazzo Borromeo

Take me to a garden as spectacular as il Giardino dell’Isola Bella and I’ll never want to leave. It’s a scene that no words can do justice, but photos can.

Filled with rare plants, colorful blooms and roaming white peacocks, the 17th century gardens are the real star of the show.

Peacocks on Isola Bella - top attractions in Lake Maggiore
See the stunning white peacocks on Isola Bella
Terraces at Isola Bella - things to do in Lake Maggiore
See peacocks and the garden terraces on Isola Bella on your 2 days in Lake Maggiore

As you weave your way through its pebbled paths, you eventually reach the striking Teatro Massimo (Massimo Theater).

The most important monument in the garden, the theater consists of 10 terraces, of which stand statues, obelisks and fountains. At the very top of Teatro Massimo is a statue of a unicorn — the symbol of the Borromeo family.

As you near the end of the gardens, you’ll first pass by the gift shop and then a cafe. You can only enter Caffeteria Della Torre with your entrance ticket to Palazzo Borromeo.

Gardens on Isola Bella - 2 days in Lake Maggiore
Beautiful views all around in the garden — 2 days in Lake Maggiore

Tips on visiting Palazzo Borromeo

Palazzo Borromeo is worth every cent and there’s no limit on how long you can spend there.

Don’t follow in our footsteps by visiting on a Saturday morning. Granted, it was also the Easter weekend, but it was probably much busier given the holiday.

These are my takeaway tips on visiting Palazzo Borromeo:

  • Buy your ticket in advance online: waiting times are much shorter and you can skip the lines
  • Visit (if possible) Palazzo Borromeo on a weekday
  • Visit in the afternoon: unlike most places where the earlier, the better, the lines were shorter later in the day
  • Combined tickets can be cheaper: we paid €28 ($30.30/£23.50)* to visit Palazzo Borromeo and Isola Madre
  • Guided tours are available if desired
  • Ferry tickets aren’t included in the combined ticket; you need to buy these separately

If visiting Lake Maggiore during the winter months in Italy (December to February), you may find yourself disappointed. Palazzo Borromeo is typically closed during this period, reopening around mid-March up until the first week of November.

The website has the most up-to-date information regarding opening times and ticket prices.

Stendhal room at Elvezia Hotel
Our Stendhal room at Elvezia Hotel during our 2 days in Lake Maggiore

Where to stay on Isola Bella

Accommodation on Isola Bella ranges from hotels to holiday homes. We spent the night at Elvezia Boutique Hotel, a hotel located right on the shoreline and visible from the ferry.

Its rooms are named after literary authors — ours was the Stendhal room. Rustic design and with all the amenities you need for your stay, Boutique Hotel Elvezia is a top choice. Unfortunately, our wasn’t a lake view room as we’d requested due to availability at the time.

Saying that, if given the chance, don’t hesitate to book one before they’re gone.

Risotto at Ristorante Elvezia - where to eat in Isola Bella
Risotto at Ristorante Elvezia — where to eat on Isola Bella

Sunset dinner at Elvezia Boutique Hotel

With a terrace overlooking Lake Maggiore and an impressive menu, we decided to dine at our hotel’s restaurant.

We enjoyed the sunset over a meal of risotto with lake fish and river prawns and a fried fish platter. Ideal for a romantic dinner in Lake Maggiore, Ristorante Elvezia provides the perfect meal and setting.

Boutique Hotel Elvezia, Via Lungo Lago Vittorio Emanuele, 18

Day 2

After a so-so continental breakfast at our hotel, we made our way to our next island, Isola Superiore.

Also known as Isola dei Pescatori (Fisherman’s Island), it was the base for our second night in Lake Maggiore. So close are Isola Bella and Superiore to one another that you can see one island from the other. In fact, the waiting time for the ferry is probably longer than the actual journey.

As its name suggests, the island’s main industry is fishing, and in recent years, tourism. Isola Superiore is the only island to be inhabited all-year round and has never belonged to the Borromeo family.

Isola dei Pescatori from Isola Bella
Visit Isola dei Pescatori from Isola Bella on your 2 days in Lake Maggiore

Get familiar with Isola Superiore

Like Isola Bella, the crowds begin to disperse in the late afternoon on Isola Superiore. Without hordes of people around, the maze of narrow streets regains their appeal, enabling you to peacefully navigate your surroundings.

Isola Superiore is characterized by its quaint multi-storey houses, narrow alleyways and the Chiesa di San Vittore (St Vittore’s Church). Its origins date to the 11th century, reflecting a Gothic style.

If you plan on entering the church, please be mindful of your attire and whether there’s a mass going on.

Chiesa di San Vittore, 28838 Isola Superiore

Chiesa di San Vittorio - 2 days in Lake Maggiore
Chiesa di San Vittorio on Isola dei Pescatori

Next stop: Isola Madre

The second attraction, part of our combined ticket, was a visit to Isola Madre.

The slightly longer ferry ride takes you first to Baveno, one of several small towns around Lake Maggiore. From here, the ferry veers towards Isola Madre, a scene made more memorable by its dreamlike surroundings.

Plants on Isola Madre - top attractions in Lake Maggiore
A variety of plants on Isola Madre – 2 days in Lake Maggiore

In essence, Isola Madre is the extension of the botanical gardens on Isola Bella. Having one island dedicated to beautiful flora and fauna clearly wasn’t enough for the Borromeo family. Because of this, it makes Isola Madre one of the best outdoor activities in Lake Maggiore.

Your visit of Isola Madre begins the second you disembark from the ferry. Unlike Palazzo Borromeo, there are no lines to wait in, just steps leading directly to the garden.

Botanical jewels

Walking through the gardens on Isola Madre is best done slowly. A delightful show of trees, plants and color illuminate the graveled path.

We spotted everything from fir and cypress to bamboo and walnut trees. The gardens reflect the passions of naturalist Vitaliano IX. He was the Borromeo who made it his mission to bring seeds and plants from across the world.

A little further into Isola Madre is a classic English garden. Within it are hibiscus, mulberry and pomegranate trees, as well as oak and maple.

Cashmir Cypress tree - 2 days in Lake Maggiore
The Cashmir Cypress tree outside Casa Borromeo
The island’s famous cypress tree

Just before you approach the Borromeo mansion, you’ll pass a beautiful cypress tree, secured to the ground by cables.

The Cashmir Cypress tree first arrived on Isola Madre as a packet of seeds in 1862. It grew to weigh a gigantic 70 tonnes before a tornado on the island in 2006 tore it down.

With quick thinking and a race against the clock, the team were able to rescue the tree. A symbol of the past, the tree’s far-reaching branches are also a symbol of the future.

Entering the casa

Casa Borromeo is the mansion on Isola Madre. While many of the corridors are closed off to visitors, the tour takes you through its exquisite rooms.

One feature that stands out is the collection of puppets, stage sets, productions and scripts. Maintained in excellent condition, it reflects the type of entertainment and leisure activities of the time.

Where to sleep on Isola Superiore

Our hotel for our second night on Isola Superiore was at Albergo Ristorante Verbano. As you can tell by its name, the hotel’s also home to a superb restaurant.

Rooms are modern, basic but clean. Ours opened onto a huge shared terrace overlooking Lake Maggiore.

Outside Hotel Verbano - Lake Maggiore hotels
Outside Albergo Ristorante Verbano
Breakfast at Albergo Verbano - where to stay on Isola Superiore
Breakfast at Albergo Ristorante Verbano

The restaurant has a pretty outdoor dining area sheltered by a canopy of wisteria. Food is of top quality at Ristorante Verbano as is the service.

Lastly, I can’t sing its praises enough for the breakfast. Homemade croissants, pastries and bread, we had a delicious and filling start to our day.

My only bugbear about Albergo Ristorante Verbano was the WiFi. To put it bluntly, it never worked. Staff informed us it was due to ‘the wind’ at night, but it also didn’t work during the day.

All in all, we enjoyed our stay and would stay again.

Albergo Ristorante Verbano, Via Ugo Ara, 2, Isola Superiore

Street on Isola Superiore - what to do in Lake Maggiore
When the crowds disperse on Isola Superiore

Other things to do in Lake Maggiore

Given that we only had 2 days in Lake Maggiore, it wasn’t enough time to see everything. Should your visit last longer than ours, here are more things to do in Lake Maggiore:

  • Giardini Botanici di Villa Taranto (Villa Taranto Botanical Gardens), Via Vittorio Veneto, 111
  • Walk the Lungolago di Pallanza, Piazza Giuseppe Garibaldi
  • Walk the Lungolago di Intra, S.da Statale 34 del Lago Maggiore
  • Sacro Monte della SS. Trinità di Ghiffa (Church of Sacro Monte of SS. Trinity of Ghiffa), Via Santissima Trinità

One of the best attractions was the Lake Maggiore cable car (Funivia Stresa Mottarone) at Stresa. However, it was permanently closed after a tragic accident occurred in 2021.

Beaches around Lake Maggiore

When summer arrives in Lake Maggiore, so too do ample opportunities to bathe and swim. The beaches are easily one of the best free things to do in Lago Maggiore, particularly if visiting with kids.

Make a note of these beaches and lidos where you can swim in Lake Maggiore:

  • Spiaggia di Suna (Suna beach): Via Paolo Troubetzkoy, 18, Pallanza
  • Spiaggia del Rigoletto (Rigoletto beach): Verbania
  • Spiaggia Isolino Vecchio: 28924 Verbania
  • Spiaggia Feriolo: 28831 Feriolo, Baveno
  • Lido Beach Club Baveno: Via Piave, 66, Baveno
  • Municipal Beach, Stresa

How to reach Lake Maggiore from Milan

There are several ways to reach Lake Maggiore depending on your departure point. Milan is just 1hr 30 mins away by car, while Milan Malpensa airport is 1hr 5mins.

The bookshop at Palazzo Borromeo - best outdoor activities in Lake Maggiore
The bookshop at Palazzo Borromeo

Which is better Lake Como or Lake Maggiore?

Our 2 days in Lake Maggiore is up there as one of our most favorite trips. The lake makes an ideal trip, whether you plan to visit for 1, 2 or even 3 days.

While we highly enjoyed our visit to Lake Como, we much preferred Lake Maggiore. For one, Lake Maggiore was busy, but it wasn’t wildly overcrowded with tourists like Lake Como.

Second, Lake Maggiore isn’t as enclosed as Lake Como. The mountains, hills and valleys surrounding Lake Como can sometimes overshadow the lake. In comparison, Lake Maggiore is wider, brighter and the hills aren’t as imposing.

Bottom line is, Lake Maggiore — for us — is much better than Lake Como.

Underline, highlight and underline Lake Maggiore again, it’s 100% worth visiting.

Would you like to spend 2 days in Lake Maggiore? Which of the attractions did you like most? Let me know in the comments below.

Disclosure: This post may contain affiliate links, which means I may receive a commission if you click a link and purchase something that I’ve recommended. Thank you for your support.

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Sunset on Lago Maggiore

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Lisa Rivera outside tent door at IUTA Glamping & Farm

ABOUT me

Welcome to my site. I'm Lisa, an Italy-based travel and lifestyle blogger behind Following the Rivera. Find out more about me and my story.

What are the best attractions in Lake Maggiore?
Gardens at Isola Bella - 2 days in Lake Maggiore

1. Isola Bella
2. Palazzo Borromeo and the gardens
3. Isola dei Pescatori (Superiore)
4. Isola Madre
5. Giardini Botanici di Villa Taranto
6. Lungolago di Stresa

Where can I swim in Lake Maggiore?
Sunset on Isola dei Pescatori - outdoor activities in Lake Maggiore

1. Spiaggia di Suna (Suna beach): Via Paolo Troubetzkoy, 18, Pallanza
2. Spiaggia del Rigoletto (Rigoletto beach): Verbania
3. Spiaggia Isolino Vecchio: 28924 Verbania
4. Spiaggia Feriolo: 28831 Feriolo, Baveno
5. Lido Beach Club Baveno: Via Piave, 66, Baveno
6. Municipal Beach, Stresa

82 thoughts on “2 delightful days in Lake Maggiore

  1. Tiffany says:

    Hello,
    Thank you for the wonderful insight to your amazing trip and beautiful photos, too! We are planning a trip but have only have 2 1/2 days in Taormina. One day we set aside for Syracuse and the other day we wish to do a boat tour and then see Isola Bella and Isola Madre but we would also like to see Parco Pallavicino. Do you have any suggestions on this plan or alternate? So much to see and do, so little time. Thank you! 🙂

    • Lisa says:

      Hi Tiffany, I think you are mistaking Isola Bella for the one in Taormina, Sicily. There is an Isola Bella also in Lake Maggiore; but this is in Piemonte which is the north and very far from Sicily. Isola Madre is also in Lake Maggiore in the north. For Taormina, 2.5 days is enough. You can visit Isola Bella and comfortably see the town center and enjoy the views. You can also consider taking a tour of other towns like Savoca and Forza d’Agro which is nearby. Lisa

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