Last updated on May 22nd, 2024.
If you’re searching for the best places to visit in Italy in winter, nothing can beat the Dolomites.
A region that’s (usually) covered in snow, the UNESCO World Heritage Site’s a magical place for a winter trip.
In this post, I’ll be sharing the best places to visit in the Dolomites in winter. My 3-day itinerary for the Dolomites will take you through some of the most beautiful places in the Dolomites.
If you think that the only activities in winter are skiing or other winter sports, think again. There are plenty of things to do in the Dolomites in winter, and they don’t include a set of skis.
From charming villages to ‘bigger’ towns, I’m hoping by the end of this post, you’ll want to visit for yourself.
Perfect Italy bucket list material, you can also use this post to help plan your trip to Italy.
Where are the Dolomites?
The Dolomites (Dolomiti), are a mountain range in north-eastern Italy. Shared by 3 regions, Veneto, Trentino-Alto Adige/Südtirol and Friuli Venezia Giulia, it’s an ideal vacation spot, come winter or summer.
A mini Austria in Italy
The further north you travel in the country, the more noticeable the changes become. With Trentino-Alto Adige/Südtirol sharing a border with Austria, you can easily forget that you’re still in Italy.
This autonomous region was part of the Austria-Hungary Empire from 1815 until 1919. Because of its history, it’s common to see road signs and town names written in both Italian and German. There’s also a third local dialect, Ladin (Ladino), which is spoken by many people throughout the region.
Many other factors in Trentino-Alto Adige/Südtirol points to its Austrian culture. The architectural style of the houses bears striking resemblance to the structures I came across while visiting Vorarlberg, Austria.
Dishes like canederli and wienerschnitzel sit alongside more traditional Italian foods. The food tends to be on the heavier and substantial side, packed with plenty of meat and carbs. Absolutely delicious, it’s a diet essential for the mountain climate.
What is the best way to get around the Dolomites?
Given its mountainous location, any sort of motor vehicle is really the best way to get around the Dolomites.
There are no train options to travel between the towns in the Dolomites. You can travel by train to one of the larger cities like Trento but you still need to make arrangements.
Other options to consider include bus services like Dolomitibus. These services will take you to towns like Cortina d’Ampezzo, Auronzo and Arabba. While helpful, services may be limited as to where you want to go.
The last option is to book a tour. There are some great ones to choose from and at a reasonable cost too.
Several notable ones are:
- Dolomites tour from Venice (includes Lake Misurina and Cortina d’Ampezzo)
- Cortina and Dolomites mountains tour from Venice
- Dolomites full day tour from Lake Garda
- Private tour by car (group up to 8 people) of the Dolomites from Bolzano
- Dolomites and Lake Braies tour (day trip) from Venice
- 5-day alpine escapade: Dolomites and Alps expedition
Best places to visit in the Dolomites in winter
Day 1
First stop: San Candido
With the Rocca dei Baranci mountain overlooking San Candido, the small town has a photogenic advantage over others. It’s why some call San Candido the prettiest village in the Dolomites.
The mixture of location and easy-to-reach resorts makes the town one of the best places to stay in the Dolomites.
We visited San Candido (Innichen) on a cold, but dry, day in late December. From one angle, it seemed like a tale of two seasons. One side of the mountains was covered in snow, while the other radiated with fresh, green trees, reminiscent of springtime.
At ground level, we still had plenty of snow to enjoy. The center of San Candido is small, and one you can easily visit in a day.
Explore San Candido’s town center
By chance, we came across our first stop in San Candido on our way from the parking area. Villa Wachtler is a castle-like villa built in an Alpine Art Nouveau style.
Eye-catching in every way, it’s the home of Michael Wachtler, the founder of San Candido’s DoloMythos.
The museum tells the story of the Dolomites and the creatures that once roamed the land here. It’s said to be the most important museum in the Dolomites, so if you’re in San Candido, be sure to visit.
At Christmastime, the area by Villa Wachtler hosts a small Christmas market. There are other stalls dotted around the center and I encourage you to visit them all. The Christmas market stalls are similar to what you’d find across other European cities at Christmas.
Villa Wachtler / DoloMythos Via Peter Paul Rainer 11, San Candido
Plenty of rooms in San Candido
The Wachtler name is also behind several accommodations in San Candido. Residence Wachtler is located in the heart of the town center and is also just 200m from the ski lift.
Within the residence grounds are a gift shop and delicatessen. Apartments decorated in Alpine style, they include a kitchenette, living area, bathroom, and free use of the ski storage.
If you’re wondering where to stay in San Candido, Residence Wachtler is a good choice. The apartments are centrally located and carry the Alpine décor that’s synonymous with the Dolomites.
Residence Wachtler, Via Peter Paul Rainer 9b, San Candido
Lunch in a traditional gasthof
It was again, by chance, that we stopped by Ristorante Wiesthaler to see if they had a table for lunch. I was immediately taken in by its pink façade with wooden shutters and was keen to see the interior.
The Gods must have been on our side that day. For, not only was there a free table, but it was also in a historic, and super cozy dining room. It set the scene perfectly for the mini feast that was coming our way.
Warning: you may get hungry at this next part.
What to eat in South Tyrol, Italy
Our first order was a platter filled with locally produced hams and cheese. Speck is the most popular ham in the region, and you’ll find it everywhere. Try a slice (or two) with some bread from the region called Schüttelbrot, a crispy flatbread style.
Next up were the mains. Two steaming plates were placed before us, one with tagliatelle and deer ragù, the other with spinach spätzle with speck. Capriolo is a species of deer native to the region. Again, it’s an ingredient you’ll see often when traveling through the Dolomites.
To drink, we took a pause from our usual wine and opted for 2 pints of Forst beer. Cold, refreshing and made in South Tyrol, there was no better choice.
While your waistline probably won’t be thanking you after this meal, your tastebuds definitely will.
Ristorante Wiesthaler, Via Duca Tassilo, 3, San Candido
Churches to visit in San Candido
For a town as small as San Candido, there are an impressive number of churches. Adjacent to Ristorante Wiesthaler is the 18th century Chiesa di San Michele (St Michael’s Church). With a beautiful white baroque façade and gold statues adorning the exterior, it’s a beautiful feature of the town.
Inside are 18th century paintings done by local artists. San Candido native Josef Stauder built the church’s altar, while Karl Blaas created the main altarpiece.
Chiesa di San Michele, Piazza S.Michele, 2
A very short distance behind St Michael’s Church is the Collegiate Church of San Candido and Corbiniano (Italian name below). A building whose history dates to the 11th century, its remarkable structure is one of San Candido’s most recognizable landmarks.
Collegiata dei Santi Candido e Corbiniano, Cimitero Parrocchiale, Via Atto, 1
Should your schedule allow more time in San Candido, here are other churches you may want to visit:
- Cappelle di Altötting e del Santo Sepolcro. Via Peter Paul Rainer, 26A
- Chiesa dei Francescani a San Candido, Via Peter Paul Rainer, 17A
- Chiesa di San Leopoldo, Via Peter Paul Rainer, 17
- Parrocchia di San Candido, Via Atto, 5
As you can see, there’s more to visiting San Candido in winter than just partaking in winter sports. The area’s landscape does make the town an ideal choice for active visitors. Whether it’s skiing in winter, or hiking and mountain biking in spring/summer, you’re totally covered here.
But, if you’re looking for a relaxing short getaway, you’ll also find it in San Candido. The warm hospitality of a small mountain town coupled with the local food and drink makes an entirely relaxing trip.
An evening, and night, in Dobbiaco
Our base for our first night wasn’t in San Candido as planned, but in the neighboring town of Dobbiaco. The Dolomites in winter is a peak season, meaning that accommodation gets booked up very quickly.
Another thing to note is that many accommodations may apply a minimum number of nights during this period. My advice is to book at least a month in advance to avoid missing out on the accommodation you want.
A pleasant surprise in Dobbiaco
The beauty of visiting small towns in the Dolomites is that you never know what you’ll find. Like our 3 days in Lake Como, it was by chance that we stumbled upon the charming Dobbiaco.
The town’s situated at the entrance to the picturesque Val di Landro area. Dobbiaco (Toblach) is most known for its cross-country skiing, boasting over 200km of ski tracks. Because of this, the town’s a regular venue for cross-country ski competitions.
Christmastime in Dobbiaco, Dolomites
Given the time of year of our visit, Dobbiaco was still decked out in sparkling Christmas lights. From houses and hotels to its central Rathaus, Dobbiaco put on a glittery show.
Our stroll through Dobbiaco’s illuminated small streets eventually brought us to the most charming Christmas market. Huts selling local food and drink served hungry patrons, while a brass band filled the air with Christmas classic songs.
Where to stay in Dobbiaco
Our hotel for the night was the inviting Hotel Stauder. Located off the busiest road in Dobbiaco, it’s around a 5-minute walk to the town’s center.
Authentic décor, fantastic Tirolese cuisine and cozy rooms with mountain views, we definitely chose well.
Hotel Stauder, Via Kurze Wand, 16
If you’d prefer a hotel with a spa and a covered swimming pool, Hotel Cristallo is just up the street. It has all the amenities you’d expect, and more, from an Alpine-style hotel.
Hotel Cristallo, Viale S. Giovanni, 37
Day 2
Visiting the frozen lakes of the Dolomites
We woke up to a spectacular sunrise in Dobbiaco, and it didn’t involve having to get up at 6am. If you love nature photography, the Dolomites provides the perfect canvas.
The light seemingly changes every few minutes, making it hard to tear away from your camera. Departing Hotel Stauder, we made the short 10-minute drive to Lago di Dobbiaco (Lake Dobbiaco).
It’s an open secret that I’m a little obsessed with lakes. From the lakes in the Lake District in the UK, to here in Italy, I can’t contain my excitement.
A scene straight out of a painting
We arrived at Lago di Dobbiaco only to find that 98% of the lake had completely frozen over. Was I disappointed? Not in the slightest.
It was my first experience of seeing a lake its size covered with layer upon layer of white, crystalline snow. I gazed at the snowy lake, completely hypnotized by the scene before me.
Aside from the lake’s café/restaurant, there’s not much to see at Lago di Dobbiaco (Toblacher See). However, visitors in winter come here to enjoy winter sports like cross-country skiing and sledding.
Second frozen lake in the Dolomites
Where there was hardly anyone at Lago di Dobbiaco, the same couldn’t be said at Lago di Braies.
Probably the most photographed/most visited lake in the Dolomites, we weren’t surprised by the number of people we found there.
Arguably, Lago di Braies (Pragser Wildsee) is probably even more beautiful come spring/summer. The lake’s famous for the blue tonality of its waters, surrounded by the backdrop of the mountains and trees.
While Lago di Dobbiaco was 98% covered in snow, I’d say that Lago di Braies was 1000%. We watched as visitors, young and old, walked across the body of water, some alone, others in groups.
Like the first lake, I wasn’t the least bit disappointed to see Lago di Braies covered in snow. Though there were visitors, the situation at the time had most likely reduced the usual numbers.
Things to do in Lago di Braies
Unless you’re a hiker or a keen photographer, there’s not that much to do at Lago di Braies.
After spending time walking around the lake, we went to warm up with a hot chocolate at Bar Chalet. It’s the nearest bar to the lake, and as we experienced in Isola delle Correnti, that’s not necessarily a good thing.
It’s fine for a drink, but go elsewhere unless you’re really hungry or thirsty. Prices are catered towards tourists and I don’t need to say more than that. If you plan on staying longer at Lago di Braies, bring your own snacks and drinks.
Bar Chalet, BZ, 39030
Another alternative is to book a table at Malga Foresta. There’s a path from the lake that leads to this cozy restaurant.
Malgas are typically found in Alpine regions across Italy. The buildings are made from wood and stone and are sometimes used as dwellings by shepherds in summer. Malgas also usually include stables to hold the animals.
Expect delicious home-style cooking set in the middle of glorious green pastures.
Malga Foresta, Grünwaldalm, 39030
Map: Best places to visit in the Dolomites in winter
A quick stop in Corvara in Badia
The next town we came across was Corvara in Badia. For me, it has to be one of the most beautiful places to visit in the Dolomites in winter.
One feature that makes Corvara stand out, is that the ski slopes weave through the center of the town. It’s a charming characteristic, and not one that you can find in many towns throughout the Dolomites. Because of this, Corvara is extremely popular for winter sports enthusiasts.
Off the slopes, traditional wooden Alpine homes and buildings line the snow-covered streets, each one of them a head-turner. Cable cars and ski lifts interrupt the clear blue sky in Corvara in Badia, but in a good way.
More than skiing
For non-sporty types, Corvara in Badia offers other things to do in the Dolomites in winter. The town’s also home to several spa hotels, as well as many top places to eat.
The 4-star Ciasa de Munt Lifestyle Living includes a wellness center complete with a hot tub and 2 Finnish saunas.
Ciasa de Munt Lifestyle Living, Strada Rütort, 3
For a rustic-style hotel with spa facilities in Corvara in Badia, Hotel Arlara is another excellent choice. Boasting a panoramic swimming pool, Turkish bath and sauna, you can relax while taking in the mountain views.
Hotel Arlara, Str. Arlara, 28
My personal spa hotel choice in Corvara in Badia is Hotel La Perla. It has a covered pool, beautiful rooms, first-class service and hosts one of the most prestigious cantinas in Italy.
If you love Sassicaia wine, the cantina at Hotel La Perla has an entire room dedicated to it.
Hotel La Perla, Str. Col Alt, 105
Lunch in Selva di Val Gardena
The drive from Corvara in Badia to Selva di Val Gardena is a content creator’s dream. Winding roads take you up through the mountains, providing some of the best views of the Dolomites.
There are a few safe places to park if you want to take photographs. Follow suit of any cars safely parked at the side of the road and be quick.
Around 40 minutes later, we arrived at our next destination: Selva di Val Gardena. The highest — and I’d say the prettiest — village in the Dolomites attracts activity-seeking visitors to its doors year upon year.
Hiking paths in Selva di Val Gardena can test even the most experienced of hikers. If you’re thinking about hiking the Dolomites in winter, Selva di Val Gardena hosts winter hiking events.
The astounding number of hotels in Selva di Gardena reflects its popularity with outdoorsy visitors.
A handful of hotels in the village include:
- Hotel Garni Iris
- Garni Hotel Rosengarten
- Garni Hotel Aghel
- Family Hotel Biancaneve
- Hotel Garni Mezdi
- Hotel Scoiattolo
I saved the best till last (in my biased opinion) as this is where we stopped for lunch.
Where to eat in Selva di Val Gardena
Our choice for lunch was the exquisite Hotel Scoiattolo. Down-to-earth dining, in a rustic setting, the heavenly aroma permeating the air made my stomach growl.
Luckily, we didn’t have to wait long for our order. A local ham and cheese platter, followed by ravioli with speck, we left full and very satisfied.
Hotel Scoiattolo, Strada Dantercëpies, 34
Something sweet
I’ll go ahead and say, that Villa Frainela has the best cakes in Selva di Val Gardena. Located down the road from Hotel Scoiattolo, we waited in line with other curious, hungry, patrons.
The tea room also serves lunch, which, from the menu looked equally delicious. We saw the mouth-watering display of cakes the second we stepped inside. Villa Frainela is extremely popular, and I advise booking ahead even if you just want cake and coffee/tea.
You won’t be served any fancy latte art on the cappuccino, but it was delicious nonetheless.
We settled on a slice of pear tarte tatin and torta delle rose with vanilla cream. Both choices were delicious, and firmly secured Villa Frainela’s crown in Selva di Val Gardena.
Villa Frainela, Streda Dantercëpies, 66
Day 3
A day in Ortisei
Our last day of our 3 days in the Dolomites brought us to the town of Ortisei (Sankt Ulrich). Pronounced Orr-tizz-zay, the town’s the most densely populated in Val Gardena.
Ortisei borders Funes to the north, Santa Cristina to the east, Oltretorrente to the south and Laion to the west. Over 80% of the population in Ortisei list Ladin as their mother tongue.
The main street that runs through the center of Ortisei is Strada Rezia. A street lined with shops, restaurants, cafes and hotels, it’s very hard to get lost here.
Along this street are several top hotels, including ADLER Spa Resort Dolomiti, Cavallino Bianco Hotel and Hotel Genziana.
Antica Osteria Traube, whose building dates to 1779, is an eatery with just 30 seats. Serving traditional specialties with Mediterranean influences, they seat guests when there’s availability.
Churches to visit in Ortisei
The first landmark you’ll pass as you enter the pedestrian area of Strada Rezia is the Chiesetta di Sant’Antonio. ‘Chiesetta’ translates to ‘small church’, which is exactly what this is. Dating to the 17th century, the Renaissance-style church is tiny, but worth a quick look.
Chiesetta di Sant’Antonio, Strada Rezia, 61
Further along Strada Rezia is the Chiesa Parrocchiale di S.Ulrico e dell’Epifania del Signore. A long name, yes, but the church represents the main place of worship in Ortisei.
Dating to the 18th century, the church reflects a neoclassical style with baroque elements. Like we did in Palermo, please be observant of your attire when entering any place of worship.
Chiesa Parrocchiale di S.Ulrico e dell’Epifania del Signore, Piazza S. Durich, 39046
Last stop: Castelrotto
Our final stop on our Dolomites trip was the small town of Castelrotto (Kastelruth). On approach to the town, I smiled upon seeing the snow-capped roofs and bright twinkling lights. From this angle, I’d say it’s one of the most beautiful places in the Dolomites.
Castelrotto was also our base for the last 2 nights. Like us, most visitors that stay in Castelrotto choose it as a base because of its location. Whether you plan to ski, snowboard or hike, the small town has plenty of great, and affordable, accommodations.
We had a truly comfortable stay at Hotel Zum Turm. The boutique hotel situated in the heart of the center, with an excellent in-house restaurant, was an easy choice. Rooms are large, everything was spotlessly clean and did I mention the excellent restaurant?
Unlike Hotel Stauder, our room at Hotel Zum Turm didn’t come with a terrace. However, we were still able to see a colorful sunrise from our third-floor room window.
Things to do in Castelrotto
Castelrotto’s town center was the smallest out of all the towns we visited, but by no means less charming.
We probably completed the entire tour in 45 minutes. Castelrotto’s most notable landmark is its parish church.
The clock tower of Chiesa Parrocchiale di Castelrotto hovers over the town with its pinkish façade and unique dome spire. It reminded me slightly of the Russian churches we saw when visiting Tallinn.
Chiesa Parrocchiale di Castelrotto, Via Krausen, 1
After buying some local honey and butter made in a local malga, we enjoyed our final aperitivo. LAMPL bar & restaurant is a sleek and chic spot with delicious drinks and a laidback vibe.
No loud, overbearing music, it was a relaxing end to a relaxing 3 days in the Dolomites.
LAMPL bar & restaurant, Via Platten, 8
Which of these villages or towns would you most like to visit in the Dolomites in winter? Leave me a comment and let me know.
Disclosure: This post may contain affiliate links, which means I may receive a commission if you click a link and purchase something that I’ve recommended. Thank you for your support.
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ABOUT me
Welcome to my site. I'm Lisa, an Italy-based travel and lifestyle blogger behind Following the Rivera. Find out more about me and my story.
How was driving around the Dolomites? Was there much snow on the roads or were they all cleared?
It was great. Even if it does snow heavily they work hard to clear the roads and put salt on the pavements. It’s very efficient 🙂
Hello great read!
Where do you suggest i should set base at?
Just for sight seeing, shopping and eating. No plans for ski activity .
Hi Ken, thank you! You can try Cortina. It’s a bigger town and it has lots of shops and restaurants.
What an excellent post. I feel that you wrote it especially for me.
Thank you, I’m glad you enjoyed it
I can’t get enough of the Dolomites! Great recommendations – they all look amazing.
Me too Kasia! And thank you!