Amalfi Coast travel guide
Last updated on May 31st, 2026.
The Amalfi Coast is a 50km stretch of coastline in the Campania region of southern Italy, running between Sorrento and Salerno. It’s a UNESCO World Heritage Site best known for its dramatic cliffs, colorful towns and views over the Tyrrhenian Sea. The main towns are Positano, Amalfi, Ravello and Sorrento. Driving the coastal SS163 road is possible but challenging: narrow, heavily trafficked and with limited parking. The cheapest way to reach the area from Naples is the Circumvesuviana train to Sorrento (€3.60, 65 minutes). The best times to visit are late May and September to October.
The Amalfi Coast (Costiera Amalfitana) tops most Italy bucket lists for good reason.
Striking clifftop towns, dramatic coastal views and a stretch of Mediterranean coastline that lives up to its reputation.
In this guide I'll be sharing 13 practical Amalfi Coast travel tips. Things worth knowing before you go, from driving the SS163 to finding the cheapest way to get there from Naples.
One of the best places to visit in Italy, use this post to plan your trip.
Where is the Amalfi Coast?
The Amalfi Coast is in the Campania region of southern Italy. Its coastline stretches approximately 50km along the southern side of the Sorrentine Peninsula, running between Sorrento and Salerno.
The region takes its name from the town of Amalfi. It was once a powerful maritime republic during the Middle Ages with a significant role in Mediterranean trade and commerce.
We spent 4 days traveling around the Amalfi Coast and enjoyed every second of it.
Why visit the Amalfi Coast?
A UNESCO World Heritage Site since 1997, the Amalfi Coast earns its reputation.
Rugged cliffs, terraced vineyards and colorful clifftop towns cascade down to the turquoise waters of the Tyrrhenian Sea. It’s a landscape that feels unlike anywhere else in Italy.
Amalfi, Positano, Ravello and Sorrento are the four towns most visitors come to see.
Amalfi is the largest, with a sparkling marina, a pretty town center and the Cathedral of St. Andrew at its heart.
Positano announces itself from a distance with its colorful cliffside buildings.
A town center of shops and limoncello tastings leads down to a beach at the water's edge.
Ravello sits away from the coast, quieter and more elevated. At its center is the remarkable Villa Rufolo. Romantic and beautifully preserved, it’s 100% worth the detour.
And then there's Sorrento, where the scent of lemons follows your every move.
Map of the Amalfi Coast
The Amalfi Coast stretches 50km between Sorrento and Salerno.
Use the map below to orientate yourself before you travel. It covers the main towns, ferry terminals, parking, accommodation and where to eat, including lesser-known bases like Agerola.
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Amalfi Coast travel guide: 13 tips every visitor needs
1. Visit the Amalfi Coast at the right time
The best time to visit the Amalfi Coast isn't as straightforward as it sounds.
My recommendation is late May or late September to October. See my guides to Italy in September and Italy in October for more detail.
Spring is my favorite time in Italy.
The weather is warming up but the temperatures haven't yet hit the extremes of summer. More importantly, the crowds haven't arrived in full force.
There are always exceptions and May 2023 was one of them.
Most of Italy experienced torrential rain and thunderstorms that month, including the Amalfi Coast.
In the worst-affected areas of Emilia Romagna, flooding claimed 15 lives. A sobering reminder that Italian spring weather is not guaranteed.
That said, grey skies don't make the Amalfi Coast unvisitable.
During our mid-May visit, daytime temperatures ranged from around 17°C to 22°C. It was pleasant enough for walking and exploring, even without sunshine. At night, temperatures dropped to around 12 to 13°C.
Amalfi Coast in autumn
Late September and October is my other preferred window.
Less busy, less expensive and usually still warm enough to swim. Water-based activities that feel reserved for summer are often still fully viable.
What is the Amalfi Coast like in winter?
Average daytime temperatures in January range from around 10°C to 15°C, with a roughly 30% chance of rain.
The weather’s becoming increasingly unpredictable across Italy, so treat these as guidance rather than guarantees.
On a visit to the coast, a local told us that January in Positano was still surprisingly busy, full of tourists, with services open.
That runs counter to what we'd expect from winter in most Italian destinations. Venice in winter and Noto in Sicily are both noticeably quieter, but the Amalfi Coast appears to be different.
I can't verify this first-hand as we visited in May, but it’s worth bearing in mind when planning.
If visiting in winter, check in advance that your preferred hotels and restaurants will be open. Don't assume.
My recommended windows for visiting are:
- (late) May
- beginning of June, and
- September and October
🎥 Watch: 3 things about visiting the Amalfi Coast that no-one will tell you
2. Driving can be challenging
The idea of driving the Amalfi Coast sounds romantic but the reality is much more stressful.
The SS163 coastal road is narrow with relentless curves. Cars, buses, coaches, motorcycles and pedestrians all compete for the same tight stretch of road.
That isn't a reason to avoid driving it. But it’s a reason to go in prepared and consider whether the coastal road is necessary for your trip.
Signs are everywhere
There were moments when we felt unsafe driving around the Amalfi Coast. And the road confirmed that unease.
Stuck in slow-moving traffic on the approach to Positano, we passed large roadside signs urging drivers to respect the coast and drive carefully.
Further along, there were spots where people had left flowers and photographs, roadside memorials for those who hadn't made it.
I’m not telling you this to alarm you, but to prepare you. Drive slowly, stay focused and don't attempt to overtake larger vehicles.
The odd/even rule on the Amalfi Coast
One of the most important things to know before driving the SS163 is the alternate license plate system (targhe alterne).
Introduced by the Campania Region to manage congestion on one of Italy's busiest coastal roads, the rule works like this:
On even-numbered calendar dates, only vehicles with plates ending in an odd number are permitted on the SS163.
On odd-numbered dates, only vehicles with plates ending in an even number can drive.
The restriction applies between 10am and 6pm only: outside those hours, all plates can drive freely.
2026 enforcement dates
- 1 June to 31 July (weekends and public holidays only)
- 1 August to 30 September (daily)
The restriction covers the full SS163 coastal road from Vietri sul Mare to Positano. Importantly, the Chiunzi Pass Provincial Road and the Agerolina Road (SR 366) are not subject to the restriction. They’re useful alternatives if your plate doesn't match the day.
Motorcycles and scooters are exempt from the restriction and can drive freely on any day.
If you're staying overnight at a hotel or B&B on the coast, you qualify for a temporary exemption on your arrival and departure days. Carry your booking confirmation as proof in case of a roadside check.
Before your trip, confirm the current restrictions with your accommodation or check the Campania regional authority website, as dates are updated annually.
3. Parking enforcement is almost non-existent
Parking on the SS163 adds another layer of frustration.
Despite the road's width, some drivers park freely along the main stretch, narrowing the road further creating bottlenecks.
To add to the frustration, there’s no apparent enforcement outside of Positano. It was the only place where we saw police managing traffic.
Elsewhere, it seemed un-monitored.
4. Parking is expensive
Finding parking on the Amalfi Coast requires patience and a willingness to pay.
On-street parking bays are color-coded: blue bays require a ticket from the machine at around €3 per hour. Yellow bays are for residents only. Once the blue bays are full, which happens quickly in peak season, you're left with private car parks.
Private car parks are convenient in dense towns like Positano but the cost adds up fast. We paid €8 per hour* at Parking Garage Mandara, but were then charged another full hour for returning a few minutes over.
To give you a sense of the real costs: we paid €16 for just under two hours in Amalfi. In Positano, an hour in a private car park was €8. Sorrento was the most reasonable. We paid €6 for around four hours, which felt like a bargain by comparison.
If budget matters, factor parking into your daily spend. It's one of those Amalfi Coast costs that catches visitors off guard.
5. Alternatives to driving the Amalfi Coast
If driving sounds too stressful, there are several alternatives worth considering.
Rent a motorbike
A two-wheeler navigates the SS163 more easily than a car, plus it’s exempt from the odd/even license plate restriction.
Wear a helmet and stay alert: some local motorcyclists drive boldly and don't always follow the rules.
Take the SITA bus
The SITA bus network connects all the main towns along the coast and is the most economical way to get around.
Services are frequent and single tickets range from €1.50 to €6.10* depending on the route.
Buy tickets from any bar, cafe or newspaper stand displaying the SITA SUD logo, not on the bus itself. Check current timetables and prices before traveling.
This is one of the most practical tips I can give for the Amalfi Coast.
Book a guided tour
If you'd rather leave the planning to someone else, a guided tour removes the stress entirely.
Options include full-day tours from Naples covering Sorrento, Positano and Amalfi, and VIP tours from Rome by high-speed train. It’s worth it if you're time-pressed or simply want to enjoy the views without watching the road.
Walk
Depending on your base, driving may not be necessary at all.
Several towns are connected by walking paths. For hikers, the famous Path of the Gods (Sentiero degli Dei) between Bomerano and Nocelle is one of the most spectacular coastal walks in Europe.
Ferry
Of all the ways to get around the Amalfi Coast, the ferry is the one most visitors overlook, and it's often the most enjoyable.
While buses and cars battle the congested SS163, ferries run directly between the main towns with views that no road trip can match.
Services connect Salerno, Amalfi, Positano and Sorrento throughout the day during the spring and summer season. Main operators are Travelmar and NLG (Navigazione Libera del Golfo).
A few practical things worth knowing:
- Ferries run seasonally, typically April through October, and schedules reduce significantly outside peak summer. Always check timetables in advance rather than assuming a service will be running when you need it.
- Prices are reasonable but they’re not cheap. A single journey between Amalfi and Positano costs approximately €10 (Travelmar) to €14 (NLG), while Sorrento to Positano costs €23 (NLG).* Factor this into your budget if you plan to use ferries frequently.
- Ferries dock at the main ports in each town, which are generally well-signposted and easy to find. In Amalfi, the ferry terminal is at the base of the town, steps from the Cathedral. In Positano, look for the Sponda ferry stop on the main beach.
- The ferry is also worth considering if you're based in Salerno, often the most affordable base on the coast. It provides direct access to Amalfi (around 35 minutes) and Positano (around 1hr 15mins) without having to deal with the road at all. Travelmar tickets cost €12 and €17* respectively for a one-way journey.
6. The cheapest way to get from Naples to Sorrento
Most tourists heading to the Amalfi Coast from Naples pay five times more than they need to.
The Circumvesuviana is a regional train running directly from Naples Garibaldi station to Sorrento.
A single ticket costs €3.60 and the journey takes around 65 minutes. No advance booking is required, you just show up, buy a ticket and get on.
It's not a luxury experience. Carriages are old, it gets crowded in summer and you'll want to keep an eye on your belongings throughout.
But the views over the Bay of Naples with Vesuvio in the background make everything else irrelevant.
It's one of the most scenic train rides in southern Italy and most tourists completely overlook it because they're busy paying for a private transfer.
See my complete guide to getting to the Amalfi Coast from Naples for full transport options including ferries and buses.
7. Walking the coastal road is riskier than you think
Walking along the SS163 carries its own risks.
There are no dedicated pavements on the main coastal road, and pedestrians share the same streets as cars, buses and motorbikes.
During our drive we saw older (local) women walking through road tunnels built for vehicles, and hikers navigating sharp bends into oncoming traffic.
It can be dangerous and it’s worth being aware of before setting off on foot along the main road.
In town centers the situation’s slightly better, but stay alert.
Many streets that appear pedestrian-only are still accessible to local traffic. Motorbikes in particular move quickly through areas that look car-free.
If you're walking between towns, stick to the signed hiking trails rather than the road wherever possible.
8. Positano is the most expensive town
From personal experience, Positano is the most expensive town on the Amalfi Coast, and the most touristic.
That reputation is self-reinforcing.
Social media has made Positano one of the most photographed places in Italy, and prices reflect the demand.
A margherita pizza with buffalo mozzarella cost €21. It was fine, but nothing exceptional.
For context, I live in Italy (between northern Italy and Sicily). That price is significantly above what the same pizza costs almost anywhere else in the country.
The combination of high prices and heavy crowds was reason enough for us to base ourselves elsewhere.
9. Explore the smaller towns
The Amalfi Coast has plenty of smaller towns worth exploring beyond the main four, and seeking them out is one of the best things you can do.
Similar to how exploring lesser-known towns around Lake Como transforms a trip, the same applies here.
Towns worth adding to your itinerary include:
- Praiano
- Conca dei Marini
- Atrani
- Minori
- Maiori
- Agerola
It was in Agerola where we spent two nights, and it was a highlight of the trip. B&B Il Girasole was friendly, comfortable and reasonably priced for the area. A genuinely good find.
B&B Il Girasole, Via ponte bassa, 21
10. The best meals are away from the main towns
Agerola sits just above the coast rather than on it. But it's close enough to use as a base and the difference in price and atmosphere is notable.
We ate far better here than anywhere in Positano, and paid much less for it too.
On our first night we dined at La Cascina del Sole. Down-to-earth and incredibly relaxed, this family-run restaurant served generous portions for low prices.
It was exactly the kind of place the Amalfi Coast's more famous towns make increasingly hard to find.
La Cascina del Sole also has accommodation at La Cascina Camere. Rooms are large, colorful and budget friendly, making it ideal for families, solo travelers or hikers walking the Path of the Gods.
La Cascina del Sole, Via Casalone, 11, Agerola
Our last night brought an unexpected highlight. Dinner at La Corte degli Dei was one of the best meals of the trip.
Stepping off the main road into the courtyard, our jaws dropped.
Hidden from the street, beautifully decorated inside and out, the dining experience that followed could have matched any Michelin-starred establishment.
We had one of those meals you talk about long after the trip is over.
La Corte degli Dei, Via Armando Diaz, 26
11. Outdoor tours can be cancelled
When it rains on the Amalfi Coast, it really pours.
Our host warned us that water-based tours are frequently cancelled when conditions are deemed unsafe, something worth knowing before you book.
Before booking a tour check the operator's cancellation and bad weather policy. Knowing your options in advance saves a lot of frustration if the weather turns.
12. Bad weather can mean better hotel deals
There’s an upside to bad weather on the Amalfi Coast.
Cancellations free up hotel rooms, including popular properties that would otherwise be fully booked. Prices also often drop as a result.
We experienced this first-hand.
Several hotels we'd originally wanted were unavailable when we first searched. When the heavy rain arrived, cancellations opened rooms at lower rates. Fortunately, we managed to secure a good hotel at the last minute for less than the standard price.
Being flexible with dates made that possible.
If your schedule allows for flexibility, it's worth keeping an eye on availability during unsettled weather windows.
13. Try the local food: it's some of Italy's best
The food of the Campania region deserves more attention than it typically gets from visitors focused on the views. Two things worth seeking out specifically.
Friarielli is a leafy green vegetable popular across Campania. Sautéed simply in olive oil and garlic, it makes an excellent side dish.
Paired with sausage, it becomes one of the region's most satisfying comfort foods.
Maritozzo is the other. Translated loosely as 'fat husband,' this indulgent pastry is a soft, slightly sweet bun split and filled with a generous portion of Chantilly cream.
It works as an Italian breakfast or an afternoon merenda. Once you've had a good one, you'll want another immediately.
We tried ours in Amalfi at Pasticceria Savoia. The bakery has a cafe where you can sit with a coffee and a maritozzo and watch the town go by.
Highly recommended.
Pasticceria Savoia, Via Matteo Camera, 2
FAQs about the Amalfi Coast
Yes, particularly Positano. The most affordable bases are Salerno and Sorrento at either end of the coast. Visiting in shoulder season (May or September/October) reduces costs across accommodation and activities.
Three to four days covers the highlights comfortably: Positano, Amalfi, Ravello and a day trip to Capri or Pompeii. Two focused days based in Sorrento with ferry day trips is doable if time is short.
It’s manageable but it’s challenging. The SS163 is narrow, winding and shared by cars, tour buses and scooters. We drove it and there were uncomfortable moments. Ferries and SITA buses are worth considering as alternatives, especially in peak August traffic.
During peak season, the SS163 restricts driving by license plate number: odd plates on even dates, even plates on odd dates, between 10am and 6pm. It runs daily in August and September, and on weekends in June and July. Check your hire car plate before setting off. Motorcycles and scooters are exempt.
The SITA bus connects all main towns and single tickets range from €1.50 to €6.10 depending on your journey. Ferries run between Salerno, Amalfi, Positano and Sorrento from April to October, more scenic and often faster than the road. From Sorrento, the Circumvesuviana train returns to Naples for €3.60.
What do you think of this best Amalfi Coast travel guide? Has it prepared you to help plan a trip to the Amalfi Coast? Let me know in the comments below.
Disclosure: This post may contain affiliate links, which means I may receive a commission if you click a link and purchase something that I’ve recommended. Thank you for your support.
*Information correct at the time of publishing.
Written by Lisa Rivera: Italy traveler and resident for 10+ years. First-hand researched for 2026.
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Amalfi Coast is definitely a place I want to visit someday. It is just really beautiful there. I think I would prefer spring time to avoid the crowds and the hot weather. When you mention the traffic and that you were worried, I get it. We also drove around in our first trip to Italy and it was pretty crazy. It was something I had not gotten used to. But I guess it is the best way to get around.
The good thing there are several alternatives. But I'm lucky my husband is a good driver though it was still nervewracking!
The Amalfi Coast seems to be such a lovely place. The view from Positano is magnificent! Driving on curved roads can be a little terrifying. I'd also like to see the charming small towns nearby. Another thing I want to try is the antipasto dish. Thanks for the fantastic advice! I'd bookmark this post for further use.
Antipasto is a starter not just one dish 🙂 Glad you enjoyed this post
I'm indeed planning to visit southern Italy this year, so, super thanks for these tips. Good to know Autumn is a good time to visit too. Good to know the bus services are good and so are the tour companies. When driving & parking can be challenging, I'd better take the bus. Thanks for the list of smaller towns, I'd prefer to explore them.
The smaller towns are pretty, not as touristic and more local. I hope you enjoy your trip here
Definitely great tips - I remember the nightmarish drive narrow roads with everyone , bus, cyclist, pedestrian cars sharing and the parking too. I had good fortune with the weather though. Thanks for sharing the upside of having rainy weather too. Absolutely agree that Positano is completely touristy and be prepared for those prices.
Thanks Adele, I'm glad you understand how it is here!
I have visited the Amalfi coast twice, once using public transport and the second time with a car. You are right, driving on the Amalfi coast can be a struggle because of those tiny, narrow roads. I stayed outside of Sorrento, and for the majority of the time I actually left the car at the hotel and took the bus into the nearby towns. Eating outside of the main cities was also much better and much cheaper, at a fraction of the price from the ones we had in Positano or Amalfi.
That's good you have experienced both ways to visit. I'm glad you ate outside the touristy towns, the food is so much better and cheaper too.
These are some super useful tips for Amalfi coast. I have been eyeing Positano for a while now but seems like it might be heavy on the pocket. The car driving seems quite chaotic... Kind of like in India. I might just pick a bike instead. Autumn seems to be the season for me.
Autumn is a great month, less busy and less expensive too! I hope you consider visiting one day
These travel tips to Amalfi coast are very useful with the best time to travel, traffic rules, parking prices, and dining experience. Amalfi coast is a very picturesque place with jaw dropping cliff side views of colorful houses and azure bordering azure water. I can under whu driving can be risky with no pedestrian sidewalks. But it's good that the hotels are cheaper in the face of adverse climatic conditions. And it's also good that you can tour some of the smaller towns and have an amazing dining experience in Michelin five star rated in La Corte Degli dei and generous family owned La Cascina del sole.
Thank you, I'm really glad you enjoyed it 🙂
I spent a fortnight on the Amalfi Coast in the 1990s and your post brought back some happy memories. We are thinking of a return trip so I apprecite your tips, especially the ones about driving and parking. We love to drive on our trips but I agree that the winding roads in this region combined with some frankly crazy driving from other road users makes us less keen to try it here.
I'm happy to read that. You need a tough stomach to drive here and not get frustrated!
I absolutely have to visit the Amalfi coast soon. I love those colorful houses stuck to the mountains and in that area, they seem to look extra picturesque. The Amalfi coast truly looks like the epitome of everything Italian that I love! Also, the pictures of the pizza and most of all those antipasti made me very, very hungry. Beautiful post about a beautiful region 😉
I hope you get to visit one day soon
We do love visiting the Amalfi Coast. But it has been far too long since our last visit. We do love spring and fall for our visits. And we were delighted when we could still swim in the ocean on Halloween! We don’t mind driving the crazy roads in Amalfi. But it is an experience that is not for everyone. We liked heading up the coast by rented boat to be more relaxing. Some great tips for people visiting for the first time. Or returning after a long absence. The point about tours being cancelled for weather was new for me.
It was something we discovered when speaking with a local hotel manager. But we didn't experience it personally so it's best to check with the tour company before booking. I'm glad you enjoyed it!
The Amalfi coast sounds like a wonderful place to visit all year round, I would love to try a fat husband!
Hehe I promise it is sooooo good and worth the calories 😀
Wow! Just wow! Thanks for sharing all these Amalfi Coast travel tips with us. Your photos make me more interested in this place.
I'm glad you enjoyed it. Visit us one day
Thank you for all of your great tips. I have not actually been to the Amalfi coast before but the photos look fabulous and it looks like a must-see part of Italy!
It's a beautiful part of the country and one I know you will enjoy!
Oh my gosh, thank you so much for sharing these incredible Amalfi Coast travel tips on your blog! I've been dreaming of visiting that stunning destination, and your post has got me even more excited.
You're welcome! I really hope you get to visit us here one day
Wow this sounds awesome and so inviting, such a detailed post
and lovely pictures..
Thank you.
Thanks so much for sharing, although I have visited Italy so many times (I live in Switzerland so Italy is "next door") I have not visited Amalfi coast, after reading your post, I now know where to go next time i visit Italy. Only not during summers, summers in Italy are terribly hot.
We are neighbors 🙂 You're very right, summer is too hot here. I'm glad you will consider visiting on your next visit
This brought back so many memories for me. Loved my trip there…. It was number one on my bucket list. Thanks for sharing….
I'm really happy to read that!
Great article coming from a person who has little information Amalfi. I will say this post has helped me to become knowledgeable and driven interest into visiting.
Thank you Chermaine, that makes me happy to read that
This is such a beautiful post! My family and I just got back from a trip to Northern Italy. This definitely makes me want to check out the Almati Coast
I'm glad you enjoyed it! I hope you come to explore the coast next time 🙂
Such an interesting post! I enjoyed reading it. Hope to visit the Amalfi coast someday and thanks for sharing this amazing article.
Thank you! I hope you visit one day too 🙂
Great tips! Planning a summer getaway in Italy so your contribution really adds up to our itinerary!
That is good timing! Please check my planning guide if you need more tips
This place looks like an absolute DREEEAM!! I’ve always wanted to go to Italy or just a Mediterranean town in general, so this could be my chance. All I have to do is see my family would want to go too! Thanks so much for sharing!
I really hope you visit us here one day, I am sure you will enjoy it!
Great post! Thanks for sharing!
Thank you
It looks amazing, but the region is too steep for me. I love Italy, though, and will visit it again soon hopefully.
It depends where you are on the coast. The popular towns like Positano and Amalfi are right by the sea 🙂
Super helpful! I loved our trip to the Amalfi Coast was so breathtaking!
Thank you so much! I'm glad you enjoyed your trip here